Skellig Michael, KerrySix hundred ancient steps in near darkness, nothing between you and the Atlantic. That's how this morning started. I'd been out to Skellig Michael plenty of times before, but conditions like these are rare. The sea was calm, the sky was clear, and the light was already turning when I reached the monastery. The colour gradient that morning was remarkable. Deep red along the horizon, bleeding into yellow, then white, then clean blue overhead. All of it